After my Up North and Down South trips, it was time to start over again. As usually - why should it be easy, when it can be tough - North for the winter! Here are the part 1, part 2, part 3, part 4 and part 5. Now winter is over but, we still keep wandering north, so let's see where Windy islands tour part 6, will lead us... 😎😆
You can also fallow the trip in Polarsteps. Not to overload the post with pictures, most of the photos you can find at the end of it divided into galleries.
13 April 2023 – Inverness, Scotland
I went to Inverness several times in the two months I was in the area. The first time was on the second day after I arrived. My hosts Graham and Sonia (English, not Scottish) went there once a week and I took advantage of going with them whenever possible.
My second visit to Inverness was the second week and had a specific purpose – to meet my future hosts for the winter. They had come especially to meet and talk. Well, I thought I had a meeting with the owners, it turned out it was actually the manager and… his assistant, so to speak. Actually, these were the people I would eventually live with for half a year almost, so it was logical, but I still managed to see the owner for 10 minutes as well.
At the end to my question – do we have a deal, Ollie, the manager, just reacted in a flash, so much so that I was startled. He shook my hand firmly and said that they were expecting me in November.
I took the bus back and decided I wasn’t going to inflict it on myself any more – £5 one way – tz, merci beaucoup!
Still I went a few more times with Graham and Sonia. Inverness fascinated me. It’s a quaint and cosy little town. Beautiful, full of history and spirit if you can and want to feel it.
One of the things that impressed me was that it was full of churches and cathedrals. Literally side by side. Different religions. I think I saw a mosque too, but I could be confused with some of the other cities. With a mosque or not, it was full of religious temples abound.
I was never able to visit the castle as it was under renovation, which is expected to last a few more months. It will have a paid entrance anyway, so I’d still only be looking at it from the outside most likely… 🤭
The beautiful park that Ness Island has been turned into in the middle of the river is a great place to walk and relax.
My most recent discovery, however, was an old bookshop. Amazing! I hadn’t come across a place like this with such spirit and atmosphere. There is no way to describe it in words, one just has to feel it…
04 May 2023 – Strone, Scotland
One of the rare nice days that fell on my day off, I decided to go to Loch Ness and the nearby castle. Graham drove me to Drumnadrochit, which is half way, and I continued on foot from there.
The route is beautiful with enchanting views, especially as you approach the loch. The only downside is that it’s along a busy road and it’s too noisy to be a pleasant walk. Or was it me who got too spoiled with the silence at the glamping site, and on Inishmore before that?.. 🤔
Approaching the castle I saw a queue of cars. Going even closer I heard the security guards asking drivers if they had pre-purchased tickets as the car park ahead was already full.
Immediately the red light came on inside my head, but I was already there anyway, another 100 meters wouldn’t have knocked me over. Well, I didn’t get knocked down the hundred metres, but the £15 definitely turned me round.
If I’m giving £15 for every castle I see, especially in Scotland, I only have castles to work for! Ha!
So, I went back in and asked the guard if there was somewhere to get to the loch without going through the castle. The guy was very kind, explained to me in detail where and how, and the risk of not being able to walk the last 100-200 metres, as it had rained quite a lot these days (but what a surprise – rain in Scotland!).
I ended up having to go back to Drumnadrochit, which I had to do anyway, and from there another 3 km or so + the risky 100-200 m at the end. Add to that the way back + about 7 km to get back to the glamping. I decided it wasn’t worth the risk.
I didn’t feel like experimenting with having to ring Sonia and Graham to pick me up, something I wasn’t going to do anyway.
So, I just walked back without even making it down to the lakeshore. But Nessie was gone anyway, I checked from up high! 🤷🏻♀️
16 May 2023 – Cannich, Scotland
Sonia is a former equestrian, loves horses and still rides occasionally. She also has a … er… I’m not sure what it’s called, it’s not a carriage, it’s not a cart, and it’s not a two-wheeler… There it is in the pictures, check it out.
So 2-3 times a week she went out for a ride with it and a friendly family – for fun and relaxation, as well as some horse training.
One of my last days off, Sonia decided to take me with her. I had asked for it, as well as for Graham’s motorbike, but it didn’t happen as they were afraid to put me on a bike without proper gear.
Apparently it’s a pretty shaky situation with insurance, courts and shit of the sort, as even with the horse Sonia was terribly worried about me slipping, falling, getting hit, getting scraped… Yeaaah…
So to Cannich we went with the cars, there we harnessed the horse and some went with it, others continued with the cars for the aforementioned reason…
16 May 2023 – Tomich, Scotland
We met in Tomich, where I finally had the chance to transfer to the horse. It was a short round but well worth it. It was fun! Especially when the horse “got chatty” with fellow horses from a nearby meadow and took on a character.
Good thing Sonia wasn’t with us, she would have gotten quite sweaty, that I might have fallen off, etc.
In the meantime, while we waited for them (it’s a bit faster by car than by horse, ugh…) I walked around and chatted with some of the locals, including the colorful old man in the photos. It was a really nice meeting and time well spent.
After the fun and emotional horse ride, we all sat down in the village’s cozy little cafe for a cup of coffee and a millionaire shortbread. Well, at least that’s what I ordered! 😁
29 May 2023 – Aberdeen, Scotland
As my stay came to an end, I started looking for a host for my next destination. I had a flight from Edinburgh, but I didn’t want to go there directly. I decided to go through Aberdeen, Perth, Stirling/Falkirk. The last three were depending on where and what host I find.
I started a month early as my Couchsurfing account was expiring soon and I would have very limited options after that.
I don’t know why I chose Aberdeen, but then again my very first request there was immediately accepted. I kept in touch with Alex throughout and when, just a few days before my departure, he decided to pop to Loch Ness for 2-3 days, it was easy to arrange a coffee meeting.
Not only did we walk by the river and have coffee, but Roberto took the VIP seat in his trunk and left to Aberdeen without me!
Relieved of the load, upon my arrival I took advantage to walk from the train station to Alex’s home and got a sense of the gloomy town I’d been told had nothing to see and wasn’t worth going to.
Well, I was lucky with the weather and it wasn’t gloomy, but I definitely grasped what they meant. The whole town is made of grey granite, which on a grey rainy day, could be quite depressing.
Still, I wouldn’t have regretted my visit even if it had been the case. Luckily for me, though, the day was warm and sunny.
29 May 2023 – Drumoak, Scotland
Arriving at Alex’s, it turned out that he had other plans for the evening, so we loaded up in the car, where Roberto had been waiting for me for 2 days already, and headed to Alex’s mother’s house.
The house was incredible – bright, spacious and cosy amongst woods and meadows. The ravens were a little too noisy, but I guess you get used to that. Or maybe they shut up at some point, I don’t know…
Alex took me to his favourite walking spot by the river, which was really lovely and peaceful with horses and sheep grazing in the distance. As a bonus there was even an old abandoned church with a graveyard – yay!
After dinner, where Alex braved tasting the nettle salad (well, not likely to repeat 🤭😆), I set about unloading Roberto a bit.
I needed more space as my camping gear was waiting for me in Galway, plus I wanted to stock up on some food for the island, as the prices there are killer. On the other hand, winter was over, I didn’t need jackets, thick clothes and warm slippers.
Not before I come back to Scotland for next winter…
Thanks to Alex, Roberto lost about 5 kg – just enough to take the camping gear in or some provisions for the island.
The next day, before returning to Aberdeen, we walked around the nearby castle, which of course was closed and under renovation, but surrounded by great scenery for walking and relaxing.
After our return to Aberdeen, Alex went on a cruise to Norway (didn’t I envy him, mm!) and left me to prepare his apartment for the next Couchsurfing girl who would arrive (and depart!) in his absence.
If only someone would tell me I’m crazy! 😆😈
31 May 2023 – Stirling, Scotland
Just like the day before with Alex’s bus, today with mine there were unexpected last minute changes. His was cancelled and replaced 1 hour earlier!(!!!) Mine too, but two hours later.
So instead of 12 at noon, I ended up in Stirling after 2 pm. Not even in Stirling, but on the outskirts. The FlixBus stop was there and from there I had to catch a public bus into town and the train station. I encountered an extremely friendly driver who not only explained where I needed to get off and where to go, but also refused to charge me.
It was too late now and was becoming pointless paying £7 to drop Roberto at the station for just an hour or two to have a look around. I just walked round the charity shops, which are near the station anyway, along with the two rucksacks and for £5.50 jumped onto the train to Falkirk.
31 May 2023 – Falkirk, Scotland
My host at Falkirk was an old acquaintance, so to speak. He was one of those I had written to in January, but they were busy then, suggesting possibly for the future. He was also the only one of them who actually meant it. Maybe it was because he wasn’t Scottish but Hungarian..?! 🤔
David was extremely kind and concerned in our preliminary communication. I knew he had two roommates, also Hungarians, and I also knew he was working second shift and could only pick me up from the station before 1 at noon, then I would be met by Attila and Gabor, and he would be home after midnight (when I would already be snoring blissfully).
With that information + the idea that Gabor would be sleeping after a night shift, I set off at a leisurely walk.
On my way, I passed through a shopping mall and the moment I saw the SportsDirect logo, I directly curved that way. After all the fruitless visits at the charity shops, I just had to buy a new pair of trainers, albeit the cheapest (yeah – £23!). There was no way I was going to make through all summer in my winter boots. Also everything is more expensive in Ireland, besides I’m on a small island with only one supermarket (and 4 pubs! 😆).
With my new trainers added to my rucksack, I sat down in a nearby park for a short break, then crossed it and arrived at my destination. I knocked 1-2 times, and when no one answered, I figured Gabor was obviously still sleeping, so I just texted him, as he would be able to see it when woke up. How could I not wake him up at that time between two night shifts!
An hour or so later, two pairs of sleepy eyes were staring at me – Attila had also laid down for an afternoon nap. 😁
Gabor soon left for work and left me with Attila to have a chat, at which point he invited me for a short sail the next day. I was absolutely fascinated by the idea and although nervous about getting seasick, I was looking forward to the adventure with enthusiasm!
I almost didn’t see David the next day except for coffee in the morning – I finally met my actual host, but the day after that was his day off and we spent it together.
First stop was Callendar House. It didn’t sound interesting at all – what kind of museum would that be? But it turned out to be a really interesting and beautiful place. A lovely mansion with a nice cozy cafe, which we also stopped in.
The Kelpies! Of course we didn’t miss them, they were on the list from the very beginning. As David even told me their story and the legend of them.
01 June 2023 – Troon, Scotland
After morning coffee with David, Attila and I headed to one of the harbours near Glasgow. A slight false start – a flat tire on the highway, which he dealt with in exactly no time.
We passed through Glasgow, which is clearly Attila’s soft spot, as he spoke passionately and nostalgically about the beauty of the city. From the little I had seen of Glasgow, I could definitely agree with him.
Troon’s marina was an attraction itself. At least for me, who had never set foot in such a place. Stunning. And expensive. It reeked of luxury and money everywhere you looked!
As soon as I got on the boat, I could feel more than just the water under my feet swaying and I had to take a pre-emptive pill so I wouldn’t feed the fish in the deep water. I avoid taking pills, especially those, which leave me feeling like I’ve been hit with a wet rag (BG saying) afterwards, but in this case it was worth it all round!
The sail was relatively short as the day was nice and sunny, but also windless, so there was no point torturing the engine. One of the precautions I took to make sure I didn’t get seasick was to drive the boat. Just like with the car – I never get sick while driving (only other people get sick 😆).
However, I felt briefly what it was like to sail with the wind – absolute beauty and idyll! Silence! Just the seagulls and the waves and the wind in the sails! Indescribable experience! Thank you Attila! 🤗
01 June 2023 – Port Glasgow, Scotland
After sailing Attila decided to show me a bit more of Scotland. A Hungarian in love with Scotland!
So we made a little excursion along the coast with him telling and explaining various things to me all the time, mostly related to his hobby and passion – sailing.
I was so exhausted from all the emotions and experiences of the day that I had to turn down the offer of him taking me to some beautiful special bridge. I didn’t have the strength to even look anymore and had almost stopped responding already.
I collapsed into bed blurry with exhaustion and happy with all the new impressions and emotions!
02 June 2023 – Larbert, Scotland
On his day off, David appointed himself as my personal tour guide. After Callendar House it was the turn of Falkirk Wheel. A breathtaking facility, especially when you think about its efficiency using almost zero energy. I don’t know how you define genius, but the brain behind this installation is definitely genius in my book.
I didn’t want to pay for parking and figured we’d fit it into the free 20 minutes, which David strongly objected to. Well, I could only thank him afterwards because we spent almost 2 hours there instead of 20 minutes.
03 June 2023 – Shannon, Ireland
When I asked the day before how I could get to Edinburgh airport the easiest way, the answer was – by giving you a lift. So, on the morning of the third day, David dropped me off at the airport’s official car park (as an ex-employee aware of the ins and outs) and we said our goodbyes until latter!
My flight was half an hour late and I was worried that Evgeni would be waiting for me in Shannon, but it turned out that our timing was actually perfect.
03 June 2023 – Ennis, Ireland
Evgeny is the first Bulgarian I stayed with. Just finding him was strange, like the most important things on my way.
I’m always very careful when choosing a host or guest in Couchsurfing. And I definitely never write or respond to incomplete profiles. Evgeny’s Couchers profile wasn’t incomplete, it was absolutely blank – nothing but his name! 😆
Something made me write to him though (and stress him out in turn – who writes to blank profiles?!).
It turned out he had only signed up a few hours before I ran my search, so he hadn’t filled in any information yet.
Well, things that are supposed to happen, do happen! I don’t know why, but Evgeni and I had to meet and I’m definitely happy it happened! Both he and his girlfriend Franciani are incredibly warm and sunny people! Wonderful souls!
After picking me up from the airport, they took me for a walk in the surroundings of a beautiful castle, which is now a hotel, but you can see it from the outside, and it’s set in a lovely area. You just have to gently glide past the flying golf balls. Just in case.
After the Bulgarian-Brazilian-Irish-style dinner they prepared, we went for a walk in the centre of Ennis, where we were joined by another Bulgarian friend of theirs, and finished the evening over a beer in one of the pubs.
04 June 2023 – Ruan, Ireland
The next day, before they took me to the bus station to continue to Galway, they decided to take me for a walk in another beautiful area.
Although quite busy themselves along Fran’s trip to Brazil the next day, these two lovely creatures, did the impossible to make me feel like a long awaited guest!
After our walk in the forest, Fran and I both decided to take a dip in the river. Well, without overdoing it – I had a bus to catch and she had luggage to pack, but for a little while… Only Evgeni didn’t dare, he decided to keep a serious manly tone! 🤪
04 June 2023 – Galway, Ireland
Galway. Jerry. It’s like coming back home…
First, together Evgeni and Franciani narrowly caught the bus (they took me to the bus station). Then it turned out that the post terminal wasn’t working (I don’t have cash on me) and the driver sent me to just sit down. I never even found out how much the ticket costs.
Then the city bus in Galway only accepted cash, I had 1.60 cash (the ticket is 1.90) and the driver again sent me to sit down. Evgeni laughed later when I told him that in so many years in Ireland, such a thing had never happened to him.
Hmmm, I think it’s Roberto who respects them! 🤔😎
Jerry and I, as usual, talked for hours, philosophized and laughed, and I made my first (and successful!) Flapjack, which I learned in Inverness. This time, the hanging girl (well, a 34-year-old girl, but does she look like at all?!) from the photos also joined in the laughter.
Loredana is a strong person, smiling and friendly, who set out to find her place under the sun. I’m sure she’ll find it!
You need balls to take such a step without a word in a foreign language, in this case English! That’s why she couldn’t get involved in all the serious conversations, but she’ll be able to very soon, I’m sure!
Jerry and I exchanged a massage each and all in all I got three wonderful days of peace and relaxation before returning to the work routine on Inishmore.
07 June 2023 – Inishmore, Ireland
Arriving back on the island, I was in for some not-so-pleasant surprises. For example, a new accommodation (much smaller and miserable), a tiny room shared with another person (for 5 months!) and 3 times further from our workplace.
The shock upon arrival was kinda serious – I knew what to expect, yet I ended up in a bit of a mess, 2 kilometers away shitty place, in a shared room, with two other girls, one of whom I had no idea was there. Added to the discrepancy in the original promises, this next surprise came a little too much for me and I was furious!
Jerry immediately offered a lifeline – to return to his place! Something I was sorely tempted to do, but I decided to give myself some time and try to process what was happening.
Nothing is accidental in this life, especially since such a situation was not happening for the first time – I had something to learn and accept here…
GALERIES
